A little talk...

My house, Pacific Beach, San Diego, California, 2:02 a.m. I'm drinking some good chardonnay. I love to cook at home, so I'm cooking some chicken with a mix of different exotic potatoes. At the same time, I'm painting t-shirts. Now, I'm sitting down enjoying one of the best meal I ever had. I'm like a bat, I love to work in the silence of the night. Few weeks ago I was pulling my brain out of my head at the Coachella festival, watching Bassnectar and jumping like a kangaroo. I still didn't recover. I watched on my computer Andrew "Droid" Doheny win Lowers Pro Jr. contest riding self-made surfboards. Awesome! I love that kid! I also like to watch Mitch Coleborn and Dane Reynolds freesurfing. Not as much as I like to watch the schizophrenic Nathan Fletcher. I still rather watch Nathan surfing Pascoales in the afternoon onshore wind than the whole new Modern Collective surfers. I rather watch Rob Machado surfing Seaside reef than check out the Lowers Pro. Everybody is saying airs are the future in surfing. I believe combos are the future. Linking radical turns together without breaking the line. There where surfing should go. Or it gonna get boring. I remember when floaters were the new thing. Richie Collins extended floater at Backdoor and Martin Potter "rock n roll" variations. These days, basically, floaters don't exist anymore. I hate the confused new ASP judging system, but I still like to watch the ASP contests.
Next day, 11:33 a.m. I'm wearing red Vans shoes with black laces, black paints, hand-painted OutraCultura t-shirt, flannel and Evoke black sunglasses while I check surfing conditions. It's sunny, but windy, so it should be warm, but it's kinda could. There's some fun out there, but I feel so tired. I've been working my ass off. The waves are small, though. I'm texting my ex-girlfriend 'cause she wants me to go pick up stuff that's still there. I still like her. But at this point I like my freedom more than I like her. It's probably good for me 'cause she still likes me too. You know what??!! I'm gonna go surf. There is where I find myself in this world. There is where I feel like I'm living my life. And after surfing, everything make sense. As simple as that.