Monday, September 29, 2014
When we started surfing, Curren, Occy, Carrol and Pottz were kings. We knew that before these guys, Shaun Tompson, Cheyne Horan, Mark Richards, Wayne Lynch and Michael Peterson were the best in the business. I personally always like more underground stuff, in surfing and music as well. I mean, not so commercial shit. I didn't like the way Damian Hardman, Barton Lynch, Dave Macaulay and Rob Bain surfed, I hated Gary Elkerton's style. I was more into Nicky Wood's style, Matt Archbold, Brad Gerlach. Then the "Momentum" generation came along and all that era was gone, dead. But at the end of the day we all know how important all these guys in any different eras were so relevant for the sport. Every single one of them took the sport to another level in their own way, in style and performance. And only a professional surfer himself knows how hard is to get there, to make a statement, to be recognized and be victorious in one of the hardest sport in the world. Watching two of the most iconic surfers ever, talking about their lives on the tour in different times and discussing their lives after the celebrity status surfing carrier was for me very special. I'm not gonna say what they said to each other, because it's bigger than life itself. I felt like I discovered a mystery. Something that doesn't belong to me, doesn't belong to anyone. One thing I can say, the mutual respect between them was beautiful to watch, and even besides their idol-hero aspect dream life, I felt them more human being than most normal people that I've known.
Thursday, September 25, 2014
There is a camera following him wherever he goes, whatever he does in San Clemente. The "Woohoo" (brazilian TV show) crew including Antonio Ricardo and the Bocayuva brothers are making a documentary about Raoni Monteiro's life on the ASP World Tour, the major league of surfing. Many years tour companion and best friend Neco Padaratz comes along to show the TV crew the spot where he surfs all the time, Cotton's. The two friends had a surf session together, all filmed by the cameraman. Raoni is staying -not so bad- at the Casa Romantica over looking the San Clemente pier and the californian golden sunset. He has no main sponsors at the moment so he has to travel with money out of his own pocket, which means the Prize money. He's been training a lot lately. Wakes up early in the morning and go surf. Then he goes to the contest, surfs his heats and hangs out at the competitors area for a bit. He wears OutraCultura's t-shirt and hat, an underground brand from California. People keep asking him: what is that? - is it a company? - a movement? - from Brazil? Raoni Monteiro was a kid phenomenon from Saquarema who has been on the Tour for many years and has reached an amazing success in his Pro carrier, including a victory at Sunset beach, Hawaii. In the room, Neco and Raoni are talking about how the wave breaks with this mixed swell tail of a hurricane at Lower Trestles, and what board to ride... Raoni puts some music on his iphone: brazilian hip-hop "FelipeRet". Then he talks about the record label that signed this talented street musician and how they became famous in Brazil. He tells us what happened with his last sponsor "Pena". "I'm happy that I don't ride for them anymore" he comments. Then they go to the HurleyPro party at OC tavern. Drinks, friends, conversation, woman, shots... Next day he is pretty tired but it's perfect 'cause he is taking a long flight back to Brazil then to France to compete in the ASP World Tour european leg. He will be facing Joel Parkinson and Kai Otton in Round One.