Friday, April 20, 2018
Oh California, I love you. But I think it's time to let you go. Like everything else that I live so much before, at one point I had to let it go. My relationships, all those beautiful interesting women, after some time it gets old. Like playing soccer. I loved it so much. I left it without looking back. Some jobs that I had and I learned do much from them and loved it so much. One day I had to quit to move on. So, I think my time in California is over. It's time to change. And it's all because this stupid thing called surfing which is the only thing in my life I can't get rid of. Everything I lost in life is because of surfing but everything I gain, everything I experienced and everything I became is because of surfing too. So in the next chapter I'm looking for a more pleasant surfing life. Which I'm not finding here in California anymore. It could be this last three months of shitty waves that affected me? It could. It could just be me who can't find pleasure in small waves, onshore winds and cold water? It could. But i need to try. I need to check it out there. I can always come back. The world has changed. So did California. Nothing is like it was. Everything is getting worse. Specially after internet. Brains are shrinking and technology is taking over. And it's all an illusion. You are not living. You are not being. You are relying on machines. So here I am. Free to go look for liberty.