Inspiration. Essence. Substance. Different ideas. A journey living the art of surfing. Photography, poetry, soul. Dreams coming true. Our life is a vortex moving continually in time and space. We believe in destiny.

Inspiracao. Essencia. Substancia. Ideias diferentes. Uma jornada vivendo a arte de surfar. Fotografia, poesia, alma. Tornando sonhos realidade. Nossa vida e' um buraco de vacuo se movendo continuamente no espaco, no tempo. Nos acreditamos em destino.

Sunday, May 31, 2015

Chemically Unbalanced

"So... well... ok... what was the question?" That's how he started his interview back in 1988. This is a friend of mine who was a really good surfer at the second half of the 80's. He was winning or making the finals in every single amateur comp back at that time. He was super stylish too, long sun burnt hair, flowered Hawaiian style shirt, appearing in magazines even out side of surfing and local TV shows. Desired by women and watched carefully by men. His surfboards designs were very interesting with six bottom channels, double stinger pin-diamond or something like that. Really cool air-brush and colorful wetsuit. I remember when he came back from an international surf trip with a bunch of cool stuff. Biker's Ray-Bans, camo Converses shoes and good cassette tapes including Jane's Addiction. He also had a VHS tape of an unrated Pantera documentary about their tour which was insane. His girlfriend was the hottest girl in town. He was always by himself, wouldn't say much. He would park the car, lean on the front hood, check the waves for a second then look down and space out for like a couple minutes, suit up and paddle out. Everyone watching. Even when he didn't surf good, it looked good. But all that didn't last too long. After taking mushrooms he was never the same. He stopped surfing right away and went to rehab and I haven't heard of him since then. I actually saw him one more time after that when he called me out of nowhere to ask if I had a t-shirt that he forgot in my car years previous and I thought that was so funny because I can't believe how he could remember that. So he came over to my house to pick up that tee and he had a wax bar in his hand and his hair was all spiked and he asked me how to wax up his hair. That was hilarious. His eyes were wide open. I offered him something to drink he said: "yes, do you have chocolate milk?" I answered: "I have milk and chocolate powder". So I hand him a glass with milk and the chocolate powder. He grabs the pot and dumps the whole pot in the milk glass, half of it out and started to mix it with his finger. I looked at that and thought that was funny but obviously he wasn't well. I also noticed that he had a tattoo of a snake in his belly when he pulled a cigarette pack from his pants waist. That was the last time a saw him.