11:00 p.m. Estou no Moondoggies em Pacific Beach, California, quando recebo um telefonema de um numero que nao conheco. Atendo o telefone, mas nao consigo escutar nada por causa do som alto. Caminho ate perto dos banheiros, consigo ouvir uma voz bem fraquinha quase insuficiente a audicao. E' James Santos que acabou de chegar em San Diego vindo de Santa Barbara. Ele esta acompanhado de Fernando Moura (Fanta), Cassio Sanches e Geraldo. Eles me pedem pra busca-los no SevenEleven e leva-los ate a casa quais eles vao ficar hospedados. O bar esta cheio de mulheres lindas, mas eu nao poderia deixa-los na mao.
Dia seguinte, o mar esta flat. Neco Padaratz chega na California amanha, e entao com a colaboracao do oceano, eu vou publicar aqui todos os momentos desses grandes nomes do surf brasileiro desbravando cada canto da costa sul californiana. Fica ligado!!!
Thursday, May 13, 2010
My house, Pacific Beach, San Diego, California, 2:02 a.m. I'm drinking some good chardonnay. I love to cook at home, so I'm cooking some chicken with a mix of different exotic potatoes. At the same time, I'm painting t-shirts. Now, I'm sitting down enjoying one of the best meal I ever had. I'm like a bat, I love to work in the silence of the night. Few weeks ago I was pulling my brain out of my head at the Coachella festival, watching Bassnectar and jumping like a kangaroo. I still didn't recover. I watched on my computer Andrew "Droid" Doheny win Lowers Pro Jr. contest riding self-made surfboards. Awesome! I love that kid! I also like to watch Mitch Coleborn and Dane Reynolds freesurfing. Not as much as I like to watch the schizophrenic Nathan Fletcher. I still rather watch Nathan surfing Pascoales in the afternoon onshore wind than the whole new Modern Collective surfers. I rather watch Rob Machado surfing Seaside reef than check out the Lowers Pro. Everybody is saying airs are the future in surfing. I believe combos are the future. Linking radical turns together without breaking the line. There where surfing should go. Or it gonna get boring. I remember when floaters were the new thing. Richie Collins extended floater at Backdoor and Martin Potter "rock n roll" variations. These days, basically, floaters don't exist anymore. I hate the confused new ASP judging system, but I still like to watch the ASP contests.
Next day, 11:33 a.m. I'm wearing red Vans shoes with black laces, black paints, hand-painted OutraCultura t-shirt, flannel and Evoke black sunglasses while I check surfing conditions. It's sunny, but windy, so it should be warm, but it's kinda could. There's some fun out there, but I feel so tired. I've been working my ass off. The waves are small, though. I'm texting my ex-girlfriend 'cause she wants me to go pick up stuff that's still there. I still like her. But at this point I like my freedom more than I like her. It's probably good for me 'cause she still likes me too. You know what??!! I'm gonna go surf. There is where I find myself in this world. There is where I feel like I'm living my life. And after surfing, everything make sense. As simple as that.