Inspiration. Essence. Substance. Different ideas. A journey living the art of surfing. Photography, poetry, soul. Dreams coming true. Our life is a vortex moving continually in time and space. We believe in destiny.

Inspiracao. Essencia. Substancia. Ideias diferentes. Uma jornada vivendo a arte de surfar. Fotografia, poesia, alma. Tornando sonhos realidade. Nossa vida e' um buraco de vacuo se movendo continuamente no espaco, no tempo. Nos acreditamos em destino.

Monday, September 29, 2014

Life After Idol

When we started surfing, Curren, Occy, Carrol and Pottz were kings. We knew that before these guys, Shaun Tompson, Cheyne Horan, Mark Richards, Wayne Lynch and Michael Peterson were the best in the business. I personally always like more underground stuff, in surfing and music as well. I mean, not so commercial shit. I didn't like the way Damian Hardman, Barton Lynch, Dave Macaulay and Rob Bain surfed, I hated Gary Elkerton's style. I was more into Nicky Wood's style, Matt Archbold, Brad Gerlach. Then the "Momentum" generation came along and all that era was gone, dead. But at the end of the day we all know how important all these guys in any different eras were so relevant for the sport. Every single one of them took the sport to another level in their own way, in style and performance. And only a professional surfer himself knows how hard is to get there, to make a statement, to be recognized and be victorious in one of the hardest sport in the world. Watching two of the most iconic surfers ever, talking about their lives on the tour in different times and discussing their lives after the celebrity status surfing carrier was for me very special. I'm not gonna say what they said to each other, because it's bigger than life itself. I felt like I discovered a mystery. Something that doesn't belong to me, doesn't belong to anyone. One thing I can say, the mutual respect between them was beautiful to watch, and even besides their idol-hero aspect dream life, I felt them more human being than most normal people that I've known.

No comments: